equipment woes, and knowing when a batch of dark chocolate has finished refining
batchcrafting insights
This quote is something I think about with craft chocolate.
There are industries in place that groom us to do things in a certain way. Not because it’s good for us or our mission, but because it’s easier or more profitable for them.
~~Seth Godin
I think about this (if you’re new to Seth Godin you can find him here and find his many bestselling books on business + marketing everywhere. He’s also a longtime fan of craft chocolate) because of a common refrain I hear from fellow makers:
equipment woes.
When makers tell me “the equipment is driving me crazy, I just want to make chocolate” it’s not the first time I’ve heard that, and I understand on a very personal level, because small batch equipment issues are a constant. And equipment, no matter how small or large, is not inexpensive: the newest re-make of the Aether winnower is over $3000. A real roaster capable of 10kg or more will set us back $25000. Custom moulds? mine clocked in at $4500 for 100 2-cavity trays (and they are a PITA to keep clean). On one hand there’s no doubt that without tabletop refiners (and a trustworthy winnower) the growth of the craft chocolate industry might never have happened. How many of us can afford a $40,000 vintage conche or have space in our kitchen for an industrial ball mill or roller mill?
Do we even want these things? If your answer is yes, that’s just as okay/legit as the maker who says heck to the NO, though the chocolate industry doesn’t agree.
The long-running “black gunk in the grinder” issue has many makers frustrated. If you are wondering Say what? it’s the swirls of gray-ish black stuff, the gray-ish black buildu inside the wheel housing, the gray-ish black stuff on the lock-pins or wingnuts that hold the wheels in place. By long-running it began in 2018 with the first shipment of small + tilting tabletop refiners with a red base; I had a student email and send photos in July 2018, and I reached out to the manufacturer at that time. Five years! That same year I had a melanger nearly catch fire when the relay wires were jiggled loose due to the very bouncy design, which then arced and melted down the switch. A disconcerting result of the black weird stuff issue also has many more makers simply disregarding it (!!!) as if random black gunk is okay in chocolate, acceptable without question. I have had makers tell me they see it on the wheel/stone hubs and washers, and thought “maybe it’s okay,” or they didn’t want to toss out the batch and lose money (understandable). Not every maker crafts white batches where those nasty black swirls are easily observed, especially if gray chocolate wasn’t the goal, so I can’t help but wonder if there are makers who inadvertently sell dark chocolate and don’t know the black is there.
Is this okay? because I personally worry about oh, things like being sued for including something in a food product I did not intend to include, because ingesting unknown ingredients is just creepy and potentially not good for someone’s health, and, unlike industrial chocolate, I believe many of my fellow craft makers give AF about the folks who support us by buying our bars.
But what is this stuff? The manufacturers and equipment sellers tell us it’s non-existent (despite photos and videos) or when pressed tell us it’s okay (without providing scientific analysis of what it actually is, hello gaslighting) and they mostly seem to hope we’ll get over it and stop bugging them. Yesterday I was sent a reply to a question in a FB group about the black gunk, which incorrectly stated it’s caused by the grinder stones; the person who offered this as “advice” made chocolate many years ago and has long been an outspoken critic of stone grinders, which points us back to Godin’s quote. Go back and re-read it and think of what he’s saying in light of the black gunk issue. Thinking of the issue in this light won’t fix the ruined batch you may be staring at, but I hope it will be a wake-up to your “why” you have chosen to craft chocolate in the slowest, most work-intensive, least profitable way which, if you share my sensibility, is because we can do chocolate differently than what’s already available in mass quantity. And by doing it differently we offer something the world needs.
If fast is your gig, sure, ignore the metal oxidation caused by the (unknown to us and not divulged by the manufacturers and sellers) stainless alloy (they are not all the same; I contacted a metal company and got an earful about cheap alloys and how countries where stainless products are made are not regulated as they are in the US) used in the wheel/stone spindles, or how the measurements for the positioning and clearance were (mysteriously and probably, by mistake) changed so that the wheel spindles have increased downward pressure (the spindles rub against the inserts), and as the cocoa butter flows it carries the black gunk out from inside the wheel hubs into the batch.
What to do? squeaky wheels really do get the grease. Post photos on social media, like the maker posted recently. Don’t accept at face value what any expert tells you, especially if they brush off your concerns in that “you’re just a small insignificant maker” way. Write the manufacturer. You likely won’t get an answer you may hope for. Upgrade if you can to the DCM20 (I think they have a 15 coming out?) because as far as I’m aware, the gunk issue isn’t happening in that refiner (I ran a white batch to test mine).
Batchcrafting dark chocolate, and the Big Question: was the batch refined long enough?
The answer is time plus paying attention.
The current science-based assessment is that “chocolate made in a melanger is far more dependent on time spent in the melanger than on the temperature of the chocolate system.” This is (of course) debated (loudly) by the makers who have large conches, because in theory, a conche adds heat + time to smooth and round out flavor. The rocking/paddling is motion without friction, which would over-refine the particles.
Quick refining re-cap: we are developing flavor by driving off volatiles (through heat), refining particle size via friction grinding (stones against stone base), and as we do, cocoa butter is released and begins to coat the particles (the cacao solids and if used, sugar). As refining progresses the particles get smaller and the surface area is increased; this means there’s more area for cocoa butter (weird, I know, but you can read about this The Science of Chocolate by Stephen T. Beckett) to encapuslate/coat the particles and this is why over-refining = fudgy, thick chocolate.
How to know the batch did not have enough time in the melanger:
Texture issues: there is a “sensation sliding scale” of refining nibs and sugar that goes from nibs in a slurry to gritty, sandy, chalky, muddy, creamy, smooth, silky, thicker, fudgy, sludgy
Make sure nibs are cleanly scraped down from inside walls of grinder bowl and all fittings, and
Always use a sieve/strainer when the batch is finished to capture radicles (stems), nibs, etc that did not reduce during refining
Don’t rush batches: a 6-8 pound (full batch in a Premiere Tilting tabletop melanger) requires 48 hours to reduce particle size, and up to 72 hours total to develop flavor. The beauty of the DCM20 is it’s faster refining time, but faster doesn’t mean “don’t pay attention” it means over-refining is a possibility. The tension adjustment on the DCM20 (sorry if I sound like a sale rep and no, I am not), is quite handy in this regard: the machine can run without tension, or at least, vey light tension.
Particle size below 30 microns is desirable in chocolate for a smooth and finished texture, because the tongue is unable to determine specific textures at this small diameter. Some makers/experts claim 20 microns is the ideal particle size for finished chocolate, while others have stated explicitly that a range of 15 to 25 microns is best.
How to gauge: first, by practicing using your tongue.
Yes there’s a tool available: a grindometer can be used, but in craft it is a 50/50 split of relying on tongue vs tool, with respected makers on either side. Choose which you prefer.
A note on astringent/green banana mouthfeel: astringency is a sensation (not a flavor) felt rather than tasted and is a flavor development issue that most often arises from under-roasted beans (some origins are notoriously prone to astringency). If you feel it but don’t taste an accompanying flavor issue, the likelihood is a roast issue. As we discussed in the recent Roast Camp, the target zone for correction is not at the end temp, it happens in the 2-5 minute flavor development window. If you missed it, here’s a link.
Question n2: can maillard flavors develop during refining? understanding the gold standard, the flavor of caramel, the bff of chocolate.
Toasted, roasted, and nutty aromas are created as sugars and proteins break down under heat; the longer sugar is exposed to heat, the darker (and more flavorful) it becomes…unless the heat goes too far, and sugar burns, creating bitter compounds. In chocolate, Maillard aromas create highly desirable flavors. But how do we create these? The hint is in “the more flavorful it becomes.”
Reducing sugars are the issue for us in getting a Maillard reaction, because at the end of a roast the reducing sugars have been mostly all consumed, but! the precursor aromas (compounds) have been created. We add sugar during batchcrafting, either at the start or midway: this is a point of debate. I teach midway, because in my test batches I favored the difference I experienced. As the saying goes, you do you, just know there’s a choice to be made, and it needs to be consistent in your process. The sugar is most often a form of sucrose (cane) which is not a reducing sugar and doesn’t contribute to Maillard reactions. However studies have also found Maillard compounds in evidence that “were likely formed during the roasting stage and had already achieved their highest relative abundance” prior to melanging (see the pdf). The studies also found that caramelization reactions (Maillard is one, but also Strecker Degradation) can occur during chocolate refining, resulting in flavor compounds with similar properties to those of Maillard products.
So the question isn’t “can we create Maillard?” but, how do we enhance the aromatic volatiles (create the precursors) that share maillard notes? answer: through our roasting.
Question n3: what do we actually taste? learning to taste
Tasting for evaluation is not the same as chomping into a favorite bar for pure pleasure, and it’s not what a chocolate sommelier does when they lead a tasting of curated bars. It’s helpful to understand how we assess our batch.
what is the first thing you taste?
what flavor arrives after the first flavor you noticed?
what is the end flavor?
The foods and substances we regularly consume effect our ability to perceive flavor: the negative effects of high sugar consumption have been shown to increase a “need” for sweetness in order to perceive sweetness. Considering what we eat on a regular basis, not just that day or just before tasting the batch, and how it has an impact on tasting our work, is key to learning how to evaluate flavor.
Create a standard evaluation routine. In roasting, a protocol keeps us on track and provides replicable data. In tempering a system we try our best not to deviate from aids us in efficiency and success. And in batchcrafting, creating systems is just as key: taste chocolate throughout the grind and take notes, both tasting straight from the melanger AND tasting the chocolate at the temperature it would be in bar form. A simple swash of chocolate on parchment allowed to cool is one way. Don’t rush tasting, and do not think how it tastes when liquidy and warm in the refiner is how it will taste tempered, moulded, and cooled.
Another method is to taste chocolate in dilution: add a measured amount from the melanger to warm water, whisk, and taste.
Question n4 : is it a bad flavor or just not what we hoped for? Sensing off flavors vs not sensing the good flavors we wanted.
Off flavors include: rancid, sweaty, mushroomy, putrid, smoky, gasoline, metallic, sulphur/rotten egg, overripe cheese, vinegar, overripe fruit.
Off flavors are can be due to inferior beans*, poorly roasted beans, beans (or the batch) absorbing aromas, excess moisture due to the lid covering the batch and trapping condensation, not long enough time in the refining stage, choice of sugar, trapped off-notes, and storage issues (raw and roasted beans or nibs).
Missing (absent) flavors more likely means “we thought an origin tasted like fresh raspberry but our batch tasted nothing like raspberry” meaning, we either did not target the flavor during the roast, we chose a formulation % that did not work to highlight the flavor, we used a sugar that impaired flavor, or the nibs used weren’t fresh/had aged. Basically, we didn’t get the flavor we expected, which leads to asking, WHY did we expect that flavor? had we made the batch before, and achieved it? What was different this time? (roast? origin harvest date? etc) or did we taste it in another maker’s bar? or, did we expect it because someone else said they tasted it?
*A word or two on blaming origin: if sourcing from a reputable/known producer, origin issues are less likely. That said, harvests and post-harvest processing are under climate change assault. Things are changing in cacao.
Question n5: what flavors am I supposed to get? just give me the good stuff.
fruit acids create bright flavors
brightness creates “lift”
if it’s fruit, the flavor can be jam or dried or fresh. Which fruit? citrus vs berry vs tropical vs tree fruits vs vine fruits vs bramble hedge fruits vs stone fruits etc
prolonged refining can reduce fruit notes: recall we are working on compounds that react to heat; aim for excellent texture and gauge flavor early
leather, tobacco, coffee notes confer cured, dried, rich flavors
long refining can mute/dull origins that lack brightness/acidity
initial pre-bite aroma is key to experience
not all origins work well in a range of %s, conversely not all origins work best at 70%
highly aromatic sugars or cocoa butter impact flavor experience
earthy notes can be read as intense; thick bar moulds add to this
under-roasting can lend mushroom, sweaty, funky vegetal notes
Question n6: how long do we need to age chocolate? the real question is, does chocolate get better with age?
Which, to be posed more honestly, would ask, Can we make a not-so-great batch better by allowing it to rest (age) for awhile?
Chocolate definitely loses vitality and vibrance—and volatiles migrate/escape—as it ages. Whether or not this is marketing hype (aligning with wine re: wine is aged, therefore chocolate can be too), or a useful tool, depends on intention. Fresh chocolate—tempered soon after melanging—definitely tastes different than chocolate stored before tempering.
Question n7: what should we do if the batch sucks? when chocolate doesn’t go as we’d planned is it a loss.
Sometimes a batch does not go as planned, despite our earnest attempts and a lot of work. The word here is BLEND. Many famous makers used blends frequently. A blend is worthy of its own lesson, but in short, they can be created by blending roasts of one origin, blending different percentages of one origin, blending different origins, blending origins intentionally, etc. In the case of “this doesn’t suck but it isn’t my favorite” the batch can be used in a blend.
Sometimes an origin is not a good match for our preferences, or, maybe we’re just at a craft plateau. Store the un-roasted beans in an air-tight container or grain-pro, and put them aside. Come back to work with them when the time feels right. In the meantime, switch gears and aim to make a batch of something that excites you, that you can’t stop thinking about.
Happy making,
Mackenzie
great article. recently I over roasted (slight burned) a batch a beans. initially they were quite smokey. I blend these beans with others. melanged them all together awhile. I was left with a hint of smokey flavor. Per my wife, marshmellows were dipped in some of the chocolate to make smores. some of the chocolate has been temper and has become chocolate inspire by the summer 2023 canadian wildfires. everything worked out nothing has been tossed.
My favourite off-taste descriptor is "hammy" - weird and gross, I once came across a bar that tasted like old ham would smell. So gross lol.